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Cityscape

 

1.

One of the great charms of the mid-sized Southern city in which I live is the hodgepodge of neighborhoods that fill its borders, each unique and reflective of the people who live in them. One of the oldest, and largest, is an irregular grid of streets filled with closely packed single-family houses. This neighborhood bridges two large medical centers, and is home to a diverse group of doctors, teachers, students, and other upwardly mobile types, as well as working-class families. For decades, it enjoyed a reputation as a friendly, almost quaint neighborhood, well-known for lazy summer evenings idled away in front porch gatherings and temperate autumns when small children would run and play up and down the sidewalks.

Several years ago, during the week after Thanksgiving, a newly arrived family decorated their house for Christmas. The display was enormous and elaborate, with every bush and tree adjacent to the home ablaze with hundreds of colorful bulbs. The house, too, was framed with blinking lights. But the centerpiece of the holiday display was an enormous nativity scene set up across the front lawn. The figures of the crèche were life-sized and included the three Magi and several animals. The owners had also carefully wired an angel to the eave so it hung suspended above the scene, as large as any of the figures below it, its wings and arms spread wide. The angel was positioned below a large, illuminated star fastened atop the roof.

The display quickly became the talk of the neighborhood and even found itself the subject of stories in the newspaper and on the local TV news. Following the appearance of these stories, people from all over the city, county, and beyond began driving by to witness it, necessitating that the family keep the display lit up later and later each night to accommodate the viewers.

But as it turned out, the great, bright star that shone down on the holy scene was situated on the roof such that it was exactly even with the window to the neighbor’s master bedroom. So bright was this star that, even with the blinds closed, its brightness punched through enough to light the room as though it were midday. The couple who lived in this neighboring house, a middle-aged insurance executive and his wife, explained the problem to the newcomers, making it clear that they weren’t angry, certain that the people with the ornate decorations would be embarrassed when they learned of their unintended rudeness.

Clappers

I

In the evenings, when I read and take notes in my journal, I am showered by applause. As you can imagine, it’s a warm and rewarding feeling. I work outside, or as close to outside as you can get while in, my dwelling an 8’ by 8’ writing shack that I built a year ago in my backyard on the edge of the salt marsh. The applause, which begins just before dusk, comes straight off the marsh, though I rarely see a single member of my appreciative audience. Loud but shy, they call from hidden places. And though I know they are birds, I rarely see them. They are named, appropriately enough, clapper rails, and they call to each other with such vehemence that the noise fills the marsh. It’s a strange business for a creature that makes its living by hiding, as if after a full day of secretiveness they are ready to throw it all over, intent on revealing their own hiding places.

II

I built this shack in March of 2011 to celebrate my fiftieth birthday. It was a modest and inelegant project, slammed together in three days, my body remembering the few skills I had picked up working as a framing carpenter in my twenties. I bought a level for the work, but never got things quite level. The lopsided beams show and, when I finally put roof shingles on, the nails came right through the plywood ceiling so that they now point down at me like a thousand fangs. When the guy at Home Depot tried to sell me a long horizontal window for four hundred dollars, I understood, in a moment of inspiration, that I could instead spend forty bucks on a screen door and simply turn it on its side. This I did, effectively transforming the shack into a bird blind, an eye through which I see herons, egrets, woodpeckers, ospreys, and, every once in a great while, a glimpse of a clapper rail.
 

Coachwhip

 

Padgett’s need to be comfortable hits him just before we start walking the final half-mile to the abandoned quarry, so he changes clothes with the pickup’s door open between David’s sister, Betsy, and Padgett’s boxer shorts and bare legs. The blue rain jacket borrowed from me is the first to go, draped over the open passenger door. It’s finally stopped raining, and the May sun is out.

When Padgett emerges from behind the dark blue door he is dressed for Southern summer already, in the long khaki shorts he had worn on the flight the day before. He has on a khaki shirt and a wide, brown leather belt cinched up a notch more than seems necessary. I look down and he is also wearing what he calls his “coachwhip catching shoes,” a well-worn set of Docksiders with no socks.

Then Padgett takes off down the trail behind Ab, David, and Betsy. His mood seems reflective, even somber. Maybe he is expectant, as a visitor is often expectant in a new landscape. For me, these young Piedmont woods are home base, the furniture of a deep, psychic comfort. Something lined up in me thirty years earlier when I first visited this abandoned quarry. When I stepped out of the truck I felt like I was suddenly rooted as deeply as a white oak. I wrote my first poem, “Collecting Snakes at the Abandoned Granite Quarry,” after visiting this quarry. David and I caught a coachwhip on that visit, an elusive snake known for its bad temper. When I first saw the place, I passed like some insect through metamorphosis, from college student to poet, though that student poem did not make me famous, as Padgett’s first novel, Edisto, had made him.

In the decades that followed there were many more poems for me, but I also began writing essays—long and short—about places like this abandoned quarry. I am interested in speaking for places that have become sanctuary through neglect, abandonment, or abuse. In other words, I became interested in most of the old South—abandoned rice fields, old canals, Piedmont quarries, collapsed mountain house sites deep in recovering woods. What interests me is that I imagine and encounter creatures in these places that don’t seem affected by the world closing in around them. There are snakes, lizards, salamanders, frogs, and toads living their lives untroubled—or so it seems on the surface—by the sprawl and spread of urban comfort zones. Even though populations may be endangered, individuals of a particular species are carrying on. It is in these places I have always practiced a “catch and release” sort of amateur herpetology learned in college from true scientists David and Ab, and today I’m returning to it.

Coevolution: Flowers, Tongues, and Talents

A poem by Pattiann Rogers

Companionable

Poetry by Reg Saner

Concern

Poetry by Paul Guest

Conduction

Poetry by Julie Larios

Crows in the Morning, Crows in the Evening

Poetry by Christien Gholson

Crush the Snakes and Shoot the Buffalo

My father likes to tell the story of visiting the long-abandoned homestead near Rainy Butte, North Dakota, with his sister. They wanted to keep some of the land their family had farmed for generations, so before the estate sale they drove west from Minnesota with a shovel and a couple of five-gallon buckets, which they filled with enough soil to grow a few chives. After what my father calls their act of preservation, they stood in the field and looked at the sky and listened to the wind in the grass. The Great Plains, which used to teem with buffalo, are empty now, my father says, of everything but grass and wind. He and his sister meant to go into the house and search for remnants of their mother, but when they stepped onto the porch, where no one had stood in years, snakes shot out from under it in all directions, hundreds of snakes, I imagine, though he doesn’t mention a number. Instead of going in, they waited until the snakes were out of sight and then ran back to their car.

We’re afraid of snakes in part because they take us by surprise, like broken vows, so before opening the door of the house I just bought, where nobody has lived for twenty years, I kick the sill and rattle the panes of glass and wait a minute to let anything that might surprise me hurry into hiding. Better not to know so soon. A few dead wasps in cobwebs near the ceiling drift backward when I open the door, and clumps of hair on the floor roll over in the draft. The air smells like dirt. There’s no sound except the constant stream of language in my head. I listen to that for a while, as I might listen to water rolling over rocks in an actual stream.

Better not to know so soon because I’m standing in a house that friends advised me not to buy, and I want to like it for a while before I realize they were right. Dozens of apartment complexes stand beside the Beltway, with swimming pools and exercise facilities and man-made ponds full of cattails, and some of them offer discounts with the first and last months’ rent free. Discounts and convenience were exactly what I needed, my friends advised, until the shock wore off—my marriage had exploded—but I’ve avoided those places, perhaps because while living in them as a child I came to believe that you could never know when everything would fall apart. “The shit has hit the fan again,” my father would explain, and while I wondered if there was a way to turn the fan off, we’d pack and move to another of those places.

Instead of renting a convenient apartment, I bought an abandoned log cabin on the eastern slope of the Blue Ridge Mountains, sixty miles from Washington, where I work and where my children live with their mother. I wanted to be part of a historic context, not one of convenience, and I had reason to believe the cabin had been built by a Confederate soldier named Robert Eaton, based on the plat map I was given after purchasing the property, which was in ruins: the sill log was rotten, the mortar was crumbling, and the window sashes had buckled long ago. But I wanted to believe it could be restored to its original condition, like the cabin down the road, and that I could be the agent of its restoration.

 

Photo: unidentified woman, circa 1865, courtesy of the Library of Congress

Cutter

 

Wood is not enough and stone not enough. The house is trembling always, and everywhere John sees rotting, cracking, paint peeling, pipes leaking. If the decay is not apparent, it is because it is hidden and pernicious. He feels panicked, as if the house might fly apart at any moment—nails shoot from wood, the walls shudder with fatigue and collapse. The friction that holds the nails is a poor and pitiful force with gravity and entropy conspiring against it. John walks through the house touching the walls with his fingertips. Hold fast, he whispers, hold fast.

Mary will be returning from the library board meeting soon. He checks that the boys are both asleep. Roger is six and Oliver will be turning eight in a few weeks. Mary has been planning a party for him—knights, costumes, dragons. She has asked John to clear a bower in the woods, a request he has neglected. He and Mary are both scattered in their energies, as if they could mount one half-decent love between them. He hopes they both avoid the children enough to keep this unevenness hidden from them.

Mary has been put in charge of the library’s evening lecture series; the previous month’s was a bit of a disaster. The speaker was a poet, widely known by name but little read. He arrived drunk and read without humor a series of poems about jizz and farting. He breathed ponderously through his nostrils. He offered no reflections when he finished, just snapped his book shut, shouldered his coat, and left.

For her the lectures are a vital leavening agent to life so far from the city. They add a civilizing texture without which she would feel that time was moving backward. The women of the board are more focused than Mary on self-betterment. They have traveled little and believe firmly in the idea of progress. They have appointed Mary to find the next speaker with the goal of avoiding the seamy flatness of the jizz poet, and, at the same time, drawing more of the men in town to the lecture. The women present it as a matter of broadening the appeal of the series, but each feels silently that they would like their betterment validated by the interest of men.

When Mary comes in, John pours her a glass of wine.

“They want more men to come,” she says. “Do you know any speakers men would be interested in hearing?” John is the editor of a magazine attached to a small art museum; he thinks of his work there as an ongoing attempt to cast light into the darkness, but his job, like everyone else’s there, is defined in terms of raising money. The women at the museum all dress in colorful accents and their hair is erratic. They speak urgently about everything, everything is so wonderful, so vital and exhilarating, so breathtakingly unique. Men, generally speaking, hate them all.

“What about Hugh MacPhearson?”

“He’s a bore,” says Mary. “And he always makes me feel like he’s doing us all such a favor.” MacPhearson writes a mystery series set in town. He had three or four mildly successful books, but has since written an additional twenty that clog the shelves in the bookstore.

D-Day

You have been waiting forever—beached, scorched, weary—white handkerchief in your pocket ready to wave. But the lawyers won’t let you quit. They save you from yourself even though you want to plead guilty—unhappy in the first degree. When you enlisted and they asked Do you take?

Dakota Civility

A poem by Deborah Bogen

Dark on the Inside

October again. The days go down heavily and soon. The morning comes later, cold and dark. Geese mark the gray sky. As much as I try, I will never like the fall.

When I was a child living in the woods with my parents, October meant darkness. October meant time inside. October signaled the coming of the spiders. I remember the linked geese passing overhead full of direction. I remember the melancholy hoots of distant trains in the morning as I waited for the school bus on Grover Hill. I studied my vaporous breath and made it mirror the trains’ exhalations. When one puff had fully disappeared, I blew out another impish breath to keep me company. The trains’ voices trailed south. October. Everything seemed to say, so long.

Death hung in the air. I heard the crackle of dry umber leaves underfoot and of gunshot echoes over the mountain. The frost-soft apples fell under bare trees, waited for deer. Mornings smelled cold and sterile, like certain snow.

October was a reaper stealing sunlight and abundance, leaving me to worry. I worried about the woodland animals. I worried about my family. Would we have enough wood, enough food? Would we all survive another long winter, each of us folded into our corners, dreaming?

Living off the land in the woods of Maine, my family spent many summer days intently thinking of winter—cutting wood, replacing chinking between logs, tending the garden, and canning its crop. However, nothing solidified winter’s certain arrival like the first frost. Stepping out of bed onto pine floors in the melon hues of dawn, my bones felt like icicles inside my skin. Outside, the field was an old giant’s beard, white and wiry. There was no more bounding out the front door in my nightshirt before my parents rose. No more barefoot, dew-soaked visits to the bullfrogs in the pond before breakfast. Red sky in morning, sailors take warning. First thoughts questioned how to make it through the day. First thoughts were thoughts of night coming again so soon. Even the golden fields ablaze with morning sun couldn’t dispel images of the darkness to come inside our cabin.

 

Photo: Krysten Newby

Darwin's Eyes

A poem by Derek Sheffield

Darwin's Origin

PALEY

William Paley, who lived from 1743 to 1805, was one of the most influential English authors of his time. He argued forcefully in his Natural Theology (1802) that the complex and precise design of organisms and their parts could be accounted for only as the deed of an Intelligent and Omnipotent “Designer.” The design of organisms, he argued, was incontrovertible evidence of the existence of the Creator.

Paley was an English clergyman intensely committed to the abolition of the slave trade and, by the 1780s, had become a much sought-after public speaker against slavery. He was also an influential writer of works on Christian philosophy, ethics, and theology. The Principles of Moral and Political Philosophy (1785) and A View of the Evidences of Christianity (1794) earned him prestige and the kind of ecclesiastical benefices that allowed him a comfortable life.

In 1800, Paley gave up his public speaking career for health reasons, providing him ample time to study science, particularly biology, and to write Natural Theology; or, Evidences of the Existence and Attributes of the Deity, Collected from the Appearances of Nature, the book by which he has become best known to posterity and which would greatly influence Darwin. With Natural Theology, Paley sought to update the work of another English clergyman, John Ray, author of Wisdom of God Manifested in the Works of the Creation(1691). But Paley could now progress beyond Ray by taking advantage of a century of additional biological knowledge. Natural Theology is a sustained argument for the existence of God based on the obvious design of humans and their organs, as well as the design of all sorts of other organisms, considered by themselves and in their relations both to one another and to their environments. The argument is twofold: First, organisms give evidence of having been designed; second, only an omnipotent God could account for the perfection, multitude, and diversity of the designs.

Day Eight

Poetry by Dan Albergotti

Deadpan Truth and Weirdness

This year I have read hundreds of applications to the University of Minnesota graduate MFA program. I read applications every year around the time that the Christmas tree gets hauled out to the sidewalk and New Year’s Eve threatens to happen again. Our applicants, aspiring novelists and short-story writers who are required to stir a pot of enthusiasms and spread them before us in an application statement, often name the writers whose work they would like to emulate. The same names come up over and over again: Aimee Bender, George Saunders, Junot Diaz, and David Foster Wallace. (I can’t imagine DFW ever having wanted anyone to emulate him, or even thinking that such emulation was remotely advisable, but that’s another matter.) The point is, these named worthy-of-emulation writers are all Americans; they are all of our time; and all of them—except for DFW and sometimes even DFW himself—have, or had, an interest in nonrealistic and sometimes fable-like stories that have a pleasing layer of weirdness to them like attractive sweat on a face. Oh, Roberto Bolaño. I forgot Bolaño. They love him, too. They want to write like him. Good luck with that!

Devotion: Wuthering Heights

Poetry by Bruce Smith

Dismantling Rushmores: Field Notes from the Life of a Twenty-first-Century Novelist

I. White Elephant and Termite Postures

Manny Farber’s “White Elephant Art vs. Termite Art” is a characteristi cally thrilling rhetorical gesture from a critic I adore and who bewil ders me (by disliking movies I adore). According to Farber, “The three sins of white elephant art (1) frame the action with an all-over pattern, (2) install every event, character, situation in a frieze of continuities, and (3) treat every inch of the screen and film as a potential area for prizeworthy creativity.” Whereas: “A peculiar fact about termite-tapeworm-fungus-moss art is that it goes always forward eating its own boundaries, and, likely as not, leaves nothing in its path other than the signs of eager, industrious, unkempt activity.” Farber locates an instance of what he calls “one of the good termite performances” of John Wayne in John Ford’s The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance, a film which otherwise annoys the critic: “Wayne’s acting is infected by a kind of hoboish spirit, sitting back on its haunches doing a bitter-amused counterpoint to the pale, neutral film life around him.” Then Farber generalizes: “The best examples of termite art appear in places other than films, where the spotlight of culture is nowhere in evidence, so that the craftsmen can be ornery, wasteful, stubbornly self-involved, doing go-for-broke art and not car ing what comes of it.” His examples range from newspaper columns to detective novels by Chandler and Ross Macdonald to, weirdly, “the TV debating of William Buckley” (I guess you had to be there).

Once Farber’s termite-elephant paradigm crawled into my ear, it never burrowed out the other side. I find it shaping my responses to nearly anything. For instance, the New York Mets outfield: Carlos Beltrán a white elephant ballplayer, Ángel Pagán a termite. This is non sense, of course, in terms of the outcome of the ball game. Whether Bel trán or Pagán hits a home run, it counts the same. Similarly, if a John Irving novel alters your frame of reference, it counts as much as if the alteration is performed by, say, Charles Willeford, or Patricia Highsmith. Certainly termite vs. elephant needs to mean something deeper than Underpaid vs. Overpaid, or Underrated vs. Overrated, or it means nothing at all (and it’s unlikely John Wayne was underpaid for gnawing at the edges of Ford’s film). Yet the situation complicates in the feedback loop of an audience’s projections: Are Pagán’s options on the field of play freer than Beltrán’s? Can he do more, as a result of termite affect?
 
Well, the juncture where this became personal may be obvious. Six books into avowed termitism, somewhere between accepting an award for Motherless Brooklyn and the putting across of The Fortress of Solitude, my subsequent novel, I clambered into a white elephant suit, the standard costume which, it looks to me, novelists of a certain “stature” are required to wear if they are to appear in public at all. (The other option, the infinitely seductive invisible elephant who’s anointed with silence-exile-cunning, may or may not be authentically available to anyone besides Pynchon and DeLillo anymore.) Please understand: I clambered in willingly. It’s a rare and coveted thing, an invitation to don that costume.
 
 
 
Photo: Craig Finlay

Do You Know Jussi?

She can hear the others downstairs. Janus is still there, too. He just said good-bye to her up in her room and now he’s saying good-bye to her mother in the doorway. Then everything is quiet again, apart from her older brother turning on the shower across the hall. The smell of rissoles has drifted all the way inside her room and she is lying on the bed with a pillow between her knees. She can still feel the moisture of his saliva just beneath her nose, and his fingers. He made an effort to be nice, that was it, and she turns on the TV. She watches what’s left of the local news, then finds a show where some person is looking for someone they knew who has disappeared.
 
Tonight it’s about a son unable to find his father. The son is thirty, rather chubby, and keeps crying all the time while he says he is not angry with his father. But he can’t understand why his father has not written to him. When the girl whose show it is asks if he’s sad about that, the son can only nod.
 
 
            ––Translated by Martin Aitken
 
 
 
 
Photo: Mammuth via iStockphoto.com
 
 
 
 
 

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